Shkhara: Georgia
General Information
Height: 5,193m
Difficulty: 5
Best Time To Climb: June until September
Length of Time to Climb: Approximately 18 days
Permits Required: No permit is required
Accomodation: You can stay in the village of Ushguli, where you will find several guest-houses and hotels.
Overview
Shkhara is situated in the Caucasus mountain range and known as Europes second highest mountain; just behind Russias Mount Elbrus. It is the highest point in the nation of Georgia and is located in the Svaneti region along the Georgian – Russian frontier.
Due to the inaccessibility from the Georgian side of the mountain, alongside it’s poor security and facilities, the peak is nearly always approached from the Russian side.
The peak was first climbed in 1888 by Almer, Cockin and Roth, which at the time was an incredible achievement within the world of Mountaineering. They approached the mountain via the North-East ridge and is the most common route used today.
How to get there
If you are approaching the peak from the Georgian side, then the nearest airport is Tbilisi International airport. From Tbilisi, you should take the night train towards Zugdidi.
The starting point for Shkhara on is the village of Ushguli, the highest village in Europe at 2200m and is located a short distance south of the mountain. It is located in the remote region of Upper Svaneti. Kutaisi is the nearest largest town however the road north is in poor condition and generally impassable. The normal way to reach Ushguli is via Zugdidi and Mestia. Zugdidi is easily reached by taking the night Tbilisi-Zugdidi train. The journey to Mestia follows the Inguri river and usually takes a full day of travelling.
The Route
Routes from the North
If you choose to climb Shkhara from the Russian side of the mountain, you will start from the Bezengi Region. The most popular and relatively easy trails start from there.
Routes from the South
The Route from the Georgian side is much more challenging and cultural.
What to pack
It is important you pack the necessary equipment to make the climb as easy and comfortable as possible. Please find our recommended kit-list below.
Clothing
- Hiking Socks
- Gaitors
- Double Boots/HikingBoots
- Comfortable Underwear
- Base Layer (Bottoms and Tops)
- Midlayer Top (Hoodies/Jackets)
- Softshell Jacket
- Softshell Pants
- Hardshell Pants
- Hardshell Jacket
- Insulated Jacket
- Lightwear Gloves
- Insulated Mits
- Wool/Synthetic Hat
- Sunhat
Gear
- Water Bottle
- Ice Axe
- Waist Lease
- Crampons
- Trekking Poles
- Backpack
- Headlamp
- Goggles
- Sun Glasses
- UV Buff
Additional
- Power Adaptor
- Camera
- Toiletry Bag
- ‘Travel Clothes’ e.g. clean clothing that can be worn on ‘travel’ days
- Ear Plugs for more comfortable sleep in the huts
- Sun Protection (Sunscreen and Lip Screen)
- Snacks and Drinks
- Small First Aid Kit
